Due to the "toy wheel" that these are, the low levels get drowned out if you try to run linear forces (who ever came up with the idea to strive for absolute linearity in consumer wheels is an idiot). I have plots of both wheels so I know exactly what they are and are not capable of.ģ) The reason I want minimum FFB levels higher is to get low-level detail from the physics engine of AC (extremely useful when going over the limit). ![]() It's a waste of time.Ģ) I've measured both my wheels numerous times with the wheelcheck FFB utility (found on the iRacing forums). Chances are that I know much more about these things than the majority, so please, do not try to blame this on some kind of lack of knowledge on my part. I know absolutely _everything_ about dynamic range and clipping. I've had FFB wheels since the very first one released (yes I've had the original MS wheel and the classic red leather MOMO). Here's the deal, I'll be very blunt:ġ) I am an EXPERT at tuning FFB. Not sure if my original post is very unclear or the reading comprehension in this community very low. then check out how the rattling disappears when you turn the wheel just a tiny bit left or right. It's still weird that nobody else has reported it, or at least I have not found any threads about this issue.Ĭould you guys help me out and test this? Simply boost minimum forces to something ridiculous like 30%, take any car for a drive and make sure you do not flatspot the tires! Just drive dead straight. I'm 99.9% sure this is evident for everybody but I guess most of the G25/27/9xxx crowd never have this issue because their wheels are "dead" when it's exactly at center position. so just because I can't feel them through the DFGT doesn't mean they ain't there. however, you can still see the horrible vibrations in the FFB telemetry. I've got the same issue with the DFGT but it's not nearly as bad because this wheel too has a clear deadzone when the wheel is completely centered. It's perfectly smooth while turning just a few degrees to the right or left but as soon as I drive dead straight, I get the rattling. You can even see the buggy FFB output in the telemetry APP (FFB output part of the app). ![]() It happens in no other simulators that I have (I have them all. it is most likely an Assetto Corsa physics issue of some kind. Unfortunately this is a no-go at the moment because the wheel is causing so much FFB vibrations that it shakes my whole table. I'd love to drive with a quite high value for minimum force to enhance the low grip/loss of grip situations and how they feel without clipping the high output forces. ![]() That is it, nothing more too it.Anybody ever got rid of the weird FFB rattling while driving absolutely 100% straight as an arrow? It's present in all cars and is annoyingly noticeable. Turning down most of the FX settings is worthwhile, try 0 and work up from there until they give you sufficient feel.Use enhanced understeer as well that will help on the weaker wheel. Find an FFB that doesn't clip and that is what you mostly need. Some people still like the feel, I think its mostly that most people need dampening lower. The guides are all wrong, I like many others have been misled by them in the past. Thus they appear non-linear when you assume the friction is linear and proportional to the input force. The reason it doesn't is that the motors have a maximum speed and produce more friction at higher speeds, Logitech more so than Thrustmaster more so than Fanatec. The theory behind wheel check for LUT production was that force resulted in distance travelled by the wheel, it doesn't. Someone used a broom handle and a set of scales and measured the pressure output at the various levels and came to the conclusion his T300 was actually linear in force. We have known it was wrong for many years.
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